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How to Build a Wardrobe for Success: “Lusts” Vs “Musts”

Lifestyle

One of my important missions as a Wardrobe Stylist is to help my clients curate a wardrobe that closely reflects their authentic style and lifestyle needs, and is equal parts effortless and chic. As a female entrepreneur and small business owner who lives in NYC (i.e. with limited closet space), I really appreciate the value of a well-balanced, versatile wardrobe that’s polished and ready for business and social needs - and has all the essentials without taking up too much space.


Over the years, I’ve been fine-tuning a formula to help my clients create a robust capsule wardrobe (which is a select number of pieces that all work together, creating a variety of looks). Check out my suggestions on how to create your own capsule wardrobe, including tips on what to consider when evaluating your big splurge options, what essentials to stock up on, and what finishing touches to add to your wardrobe to create cohesive outfits that are creative and polished.

BIG SPLURGES:

These may include: winter wool coat, rain coat, well-fitted blazer, power suit, leather jacket, classic handbag, winter leather boots, classic pumps, and timeless accessories – watch, bracelet, cocktail ring and necklace.

When you’re refreshing your wardrobe or building it from scratch, it’s best to invest in a few key pieces first. These will be your wardrobe staples for years to come, and will create the foundation for your outfits. Because they’ll be getting a lot of wear, I recommend you splurge on these select pieces as a way of “investing” in your wardrobe. One great concept to keep in mind when purchasing these big ticket items is estimating their “cost per wear”. This puts your purchases in perspective, and helps you think through whether you can wear them with multiple other things in your closet as a way to assess their versatility and therefore their “staying power” (in contrast to trendy items that risk turning into fads).

Additionally, I like to run the potential purchase through some check points to see if it passes as a viable “investment”. Here are a few criteria to evaluate the pricey pieces you’re considering purchasing:

Structure: This applies to the construction of the garment or accessory, as well as its design. Structured pieces have a sturdier, sometimes geometric look - so they appear more modern and have more longevity due to better craftsmanship.

Fabric: When it comes to coats and blazers, the “hand” of the fabric is important. This refers to whether it feels rough or soft, and whether it will feel good when you’re wearing it. Fiber content is also essential to determine both the durability of the piece and its clothing maintenance. Natural fibers and natural fiber blends breathe well and will last longer. Be sure to check the wash tag so you can properly factor in the cost of the item’s care - dry cleaning and upkeep will increase your item’s “cost-per-wear”.

Details: Linings made out of leather, canvas or other compressed and reinforced fabrics will be more expensive but will also last longer; and the seams of your garments should be sturdy. Other item details should also be durable and well-made, such as buttons, zippers and pockets. PRO-TIP: Patterns lining up right is a sign of good quality and is a detail to look out for!

Colors: If you’re shopping in the high-end category, look for colors that will complement your complexion or create an interesting contrast with your other wardrobe staples – you’ll get more wear out of those pieces. If you’re unsure about bold colors, neutrals are always safe – and never go out of style.

Classics: Typically, a classic is a piece that’s timeless, clean-cut and neutral. If you anticipate your big purchase will become a wardrobe classic, and you’ll be loving it for years to come, then go for it! Classics also create great foundations for your outfits so you can rely on to them to mix well with other pieces.

Trends: Fashion magazines, blogs, celebrity fashion and TV shows are great at embracing trends, which are exciting seasonal items carried by multiple stores. Some come and go, infrequently some become more accepted as classics and stand the test of time, or last a few seasons or years. While it’s fun to experiment with the latest seasonal updates, if you’re splurging, you should focus on the items that you can wear often. Trends are also tricky because they don’t always universally complement every body type. If you’re considering incorporating a trend into your wardrobe, it’s safer to do so with seasonal accessories and less expensive buys (more on that below).

24 Hour Cooling Period: I always try to purchase my splurge items at a store with a good return policy - I don’t want to be stricken with buyer’s remorse a week later and be stuck with the piece. Additionally, I always do the “do I still want it tomorrow” test whenever I’m not 100% certain at the time of purchase. In that case, I’ll put the item on hold and go home. If I keep thinking about it when I get home and the day after, I’ll return to the store and make the purchase.

Courtesy of Ralph Lauren:

ESSENTIALS:

These may include: silky blouse, A-line skirt, shift dress, sheath dress, pencil skirt, cropped blazer, booties, flats, dark skinny jeans, cowl neck sweater, classic or cropped pants.

What are the staple basics that should live in your closet to make it a well-rounded, polished wardrobe of a successful business lady? I’ve included some suggestions below, and keep in mind that while these aren’t your big splurge items, they will still be worn a lot, so good quality is a must. Another tip: this is the category where you can double-up and have multiple options of same/similar styles as they will become your outfit formula go-to’s.

Silky Blouse: Equally feminine and polished and pairs well with a suit for a meeting or interview, a pair of jeans for a night out, or tucked into a skirt for an office look. Also, this is a much more exciting option than the button down, which can oftentimes feel stiff and masculine. Invest in some good neutrals (off-white, crisp white, camel and gray) but also don’t be afraid to add a few colors and patterns into the mix.

A-Line or Pencil Skirt: Both silhouettes are timeless and should fit most figure types. A high-waisted option is perfect for elongating your legs and cinching your waist to bring attention to your narrowest part.

Cropped Blazer: Another great way to add attention to your waist is through a shorter jacket that ends around your waist line, and pairs well with a silky blouse underneath for a casual/fun weekend look.

Booties: Choosing pairs that are slightly pointy rather than rounded will allow them to be more versatile and elegant, elongating your legs through the power of vertical line. They are also a great alternative to pumps – especially if you find ones with a block heel for more stability.

Courtesy of Stuart Weitzman

Courtesy of Rag&Bone

Flats: A nice pair of leather flats can polish off a cute yet casual outfit. They go great with skinny jeans, cropped pants or an A-Line skirt for when you want to give your feet a break.

Cropped Pants: A slightly shorter silhouette that tapers towards the ankles is very flattering and goes well with different types of shoes – from pumps to flats and booties. Choose colors that will wear well for a variety of looks: navy, gray, dark green and maroon are all good choices.

Sheath Dress: A super flattering shape that is both professional and glamorous. For a variety of looks, choose some with prints and interesting details (belt, seams, yokes) and some that are solid, one-color pieces.

Shift Dress: Less conforming than the sheath dress, this silhouette is ideal for camouflaging certain body parts (stomach area, for example) as it tends to be more straight-cut. This shape lends itself to a more casual feel – you can pair it with leggings and boots, or belt it to cinch at the waist for a more professional, polished outfit.

Dark Skinny Jeans: While it’s fun to have a variety of jeans in your wardrobe, dark denim always looks more polished and the skinny silhouette is timeless and ageless. I like to recommend premium denim to my clients as it will give you more wear for your money (and you can often find it on sale or at off-price retailers, like Saks Off Fifth, Nordstrom Rack and Century 21).

Tank tops, stockings and foundation garments: These are your base-level necessities. They are great for layering, and will get a lot of wear, so they’ll need occasional replacements. It’s ok to spend less on these or get them on sale as they will be somewhat transitional. It is, however, important to get properly fitted for bras – as they can change the way your clothes fit, and a great bra can take an ok-fitting look to a fantastic-looking outfit.

FINISHING TOUCHES:

These may include: colorful scarves, fashion jewelry, makeup, gloves.

Courtesy of Club Monaco

I like to recommend updating this category every season to keep your wardrobe fresh and exciting. Once you’ve had your main splurges and staples figured out, these items will fill in the gaps and elevate your outfits, as well as add variety to your looks. This is a great place to experiment with some trends and add more color to your wardrobe.

If you have any specific questions about your wardrobe and how to create a more customized action plan for a refresh or building it from scratch, please don’t hesitate to reach out to schedule a one-on-one Style Development Session at my studio!

Culture

A Modern Day Witch Hunt: How Caster Semenya's Gender Became A Hot Topic In The Media

Gender divisions in sports have primarily served to keep women out of what has always been believed to be a male domain. The idea of women participating alongside men has been regarded with contempt under the belief that women were made physically inferior.


Within their own division, women have reached new heights, received accolades for outstanding physical performance and endurance, and have proven themselves to be as capable of athletic excellence as men. In spite of women's collective fight to be recognized as equals to their male counterparts, female athletes must now prove their womanhood in order to compete alongside their own gender.

That has been the reality for Caster Semenya, a South African Olympic champion, who has been at the center of the latest gender discrimination debate across the world. After crushing her competition in the women's 800-meter dash in 2016, Semenya was subjected to scrutiny from her peers based upon her physical appearance, calling her gender into question. Despite setting a new national record for South Africa and attaining the title of fifth fastest woman in Olympic history, Semenya's success was quickly brushed aside as she became a spectacle for all the wrong reasons.

Semenya's gender became a hot topic among reporters as the Olympic champion was subjected to sex testing by the International Association of Athletics Federations (IAAF). According to Ruth Padawer from the New York Times, Semenya was forced to undergo relentless examination by gender experts to determine whether or not she was woman enough to compete as one. While the IAAF has never released the results of their testing, that did not stop the media from making irreverent speculations about the athlete's gender.

Moments after winning the Berlin World Athletics Championship in 2009, Semenya was faced with immediate backlash from fellow runners. Elisa Cusma who suffered a whopping defeat after finishing in sixth place, felt as though Semenya was too masculine to compete in a women's race. Cusma stated, "These kind of people should not run with us. For me, she is not a woman. She's a man." While her statement proved insensitive enough, her perspective was acknowledged and appeared to be a mutually belief among the other white female competitors.

Fast forward to 2018, the IAAF issued new Eligibility Regulations for Female Classification (Athlete with Differences of Sexual Development) that apply to events from 400m to the mile, including 400m hurdles races, 800m, and 1500m. The regulations created by the IAAF state that an athlete must be recognized at law as either female or intersex, she must reduce her testosterone level to below 5 nmol/L continuously for the duration of six months, and she must maintain her testosterone levels to remain below 5 nmol/L during and after competing so long as she wishes to be eligible to compete in any future events. It is believed that these new rules have been put into effect to specifically target Semenya given her history of being the most recent athlete to face this sort of discrimination.

With these regulations put into effect, in combination with the lack of information about whether or not Semenya is biologically a female of male, society has seemed to come to the conclusion that Semenya is intersex, meaning she was born with any variation of characteristics, chromosomes, gonads, sex hormones, or genitals. After her initial testing, there had been alleged leaks to media outlets such as Australia's Daily Telegraph newspaper which stated that Semenya's results proved that her testosterone levels were too high. This information, while not credible, has been widely accepted as fact. Whether or not Semenya is intersex, society appears to be missing the point that no one is entitled to this information. Running off their newfound acceptance that the Olympic champion is intersex, it calls into question whether her elevated levels of testosterone makes her a man.

The IAAF published a study concluding that higher levels of testosterone do, in fact, contribute to the level of performance in track and field. However, higher testosterone levels have never been the sole determining factor for sex or gender. There are conditions that affect women, such as PCOS, in which the ovaries produce extra amounts of testosterone. However, those women never have their womanhood called into question, nor should they—and neither should Semenya.

Every aspect of the issue surrounding Semenya's body has been deplorable, to say the least. However, there has not been enough recognition as to how invasive and degrading sex testing actually is. For any woman, at any age, to have her body forcibly examined and studied like a science project by "experts" is humiliating and unethical. Under no circumstances have Semenya's health or well-being been considered upon discovering that her body allegedly produces an excessive amount of testosterone. For the sake of an organization, for the comfort of white female athletes who felt as though Semenya's gender was an unfair advantage against them, Semenya and other women like her, must undergo hormone treatment to reduce their performance to that of which women are expected to perform at. Yet some women within the athletic community are unphased by this direct attempt to further prove women as inferior athletes.

As difficult as this global invasion of privacy has been for the athlete, the humiliation and sense of violation is felt by her people in South Africa. Writer and activist, Kari, reported that Semenya has had the country's undying support since her first global appearance in 2009. Even after the IAAF released their new regulations, South Africans have refuted their accusations. Kari stated, "The Minister of Sports and Recreation and the Africa National Congress, South Africa's ruling party labeled the decision as anti-sport, racist, and homophobic." It is no secret that the build and appearance of Black women have always been met with racist and sexist commentary. Because Black women have never managed to fit into the European standard of beauty catered to and in favor of white women, the accusations of Semenya appearing too masculine were unsurprising.

Despite the countless injustices Semenya has faced over the years, she remains as determined as ever to return to track and field and compete amongst women as the woman she is. Her fight against the IAAF's regulations continues as the Olympic champion has been receiving and outpour of support in wake of the Association's decision. Semenya is determined to run again, win again, and set new and inclusive standards for women's sports.